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This has been in development a LOOOOONG time now. We are confident this bottom bracket is the best threaded T47 30mm external bottom bracket you can buy due to several unique and patent-pending features.


Why not hexagon?

The shape of this bottom bracket did not require the external ears of the hexagon for bearing extraction. I always try and use standard, off-the-shelf hardware and tools where possible and because there is so much room on the inside of a T47, I designed the cups to have 1 large internal thread used for bearing extraction.


Here's the story: I was sick of throwing out bottom brackets every time the bearings got crappy. Some allow you to knock the old bearing out from the backside and replace, but it requires special tools, or is a complete pain in the neck. 

When the bearings get just a little too crunchy, simply use the included extractor bolt theaded into the backside of the cup to drive the old bearing out. Use your t47-12 spline socket and the provided threaded washer to install your new 6906 (yes, we use the big-ball 6906 which is far stronger than the normal 6806 bearings)


Why the crazy price?

Simply put, we use very expensive bearings and machine everything in-house to best-in-class bearing housing fits/tolerances. Did you know that even a thousandth or two out-of spec on a bearing housing can wreck even the best bearing in the world in short-order? These are machined to M7 fits for you engineers, which is the fit specification recomended by NTN.


NTN LLB (low drag seals) or LLU (keep that crap outa my balls seals) bearings are widely considered to be among the best if not the best bearings in the world outside the bicycle industry. Dont settle for cheaply made bearings that last a few rides (or less) or a cup thats machined with less-than stellar housing fit. I'd recomend the LLU seals 99% of the time. They feel a little draggy when you first spin them by hand but will absolutely not be noticed on the bike and cannot be beat for keeping out the muck, grit, and crap. LLB can be used on a road bike that sees fair weather or racing, but you'll need to pop seals off and repack the bearings if that local gravel KOM calls your name.


Further, stainless steel is great for a LOT of things, but not bearings! If you have enough standing water inside your bearings for long enough to cause them to rust, you're already way past the point of those things spinning freely. Bearings, whether inner/outer races or the rolling elements need to be hardened steel. The harder the better in most cases. Stainless is soft and brinells and you don't want that ever.


Videos will be up on youtube shortly showing how to service these but for the most part it's very easy. The bearing press IS the socket to remove/install the bottom bracket into the frame and the threaded washer we supply with the BB.  This is a well-thought-out complete bottom bracket setup geared toward many many many trouble free miles ahead.



-Cups machined from 7075-t651 aluminum

-Bearings are NTN 6906 LLU (great seals, a little intitial drag) OR 6906 LLB (less drag, don't seal as well) Go LLU imho

-Use a Park tool BBT-47-12 or similiar standard socket for installation and bearing press duties with supplied washer and bolt.

-165g installed weight with spindle washers/dust shields

-No washers to be used behind these (and farme) on 68,73,83,100mm shells when paired with our cranks. These sit the bearings as far outboard as possible.

-T47 47x1 thread LH thread DS (right) and T47 47x1 RH thread NDS (Left) engraved into cups


T47 30 Bottom Bracket

Preorder shipment for items not in stock will be 4-6 weeks
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